Thursday, June 19, 2014

Collar down, now for the rest of the jacket

Today is the holiday of Corpus Christ here in Brazil, meaning that I have the day off from work.  Which is fortuitous, since my husband is going to watch England play Uruguay.  So what did I do this morning, while dear husband was still at home?  Well of course, I started my Pavot coat for the Pattern Review contest.  
 The only change I had to make to the pattern was to separate the button placket from the placket facing.  I cut on the fold line and then added the 5/8th inch seam allowance.  I think that instead of turning up the hem, I'll make a facing so that it will be a bit longer, so I'll have to add some length to the placket and facing before I cut.  (I had already traced and cut the pattern about a year ago, and started sewing a periwinkle twill version, but stopped partway through because the twill was cheap, and looked it even with bound button holes.)
I wanted to see how the piping would look and work before I got really into the cutting and sewing (so I could change things if necessary), so I cut out only the collar.  Since it's a Peter Pan collar, this is also the most difficult part to pipe, as it has the tightest curve.  First to make it easier for me, I basted the seam allowance in a different color.
I finally got to use my fabric clips, as the wool is think and then the patent leather is hard to pin.  I matched up the basting on the piping with the basting on the fabric.
Next I sewed it.  Then I unpicked it.  After that I redid the sewing, but basted it.  I used my piping foot and a leather needle, but the patent leather was shifty.  Basting it really helped.  After basting it, I clipped the under collar to it.  That's when I finally sewed it following the basting line.  (I didn't take a picture of this step.)

Once it was sewed, then came the cutting of the triangles.  There were a lot of triangles.  Again.  Now I'll be finding the butterrum and the turquoise ones forever!  I will admit, it's moments like this that I  am thankful that we don't have carpet. 
Once again Alex helped me cleaning up the triangles.  And by helping me, he spread them even further.  At one point he sat down in the pile of them and then took them over to the other side of the room.  Here is the collar fully notched, clipped, whatever you want to call it.

You can clearly see that I had yet to remove the basting.  You'll also notice that I make sure that the clipping on each side is different, so that I don't create pivot points.  This takes longer, but makes a prettier curve.  After this, I pressed it inside out to set the stitching (we'll pretend I took out all of the basting), and then flipped it.  I then pressed again and wished that I had a clapper to help ensure the seams were as flat as they could be.  I may pick one up in the future.
This is after I pressed it.  Looks nice right?  It will hang out on my mannequin while I sew the rest of the jacket.  What do you think of the gold and yellow trimming?  I picked it up last August when I was working in Moscow for the month.  I have an idea percolating in my head on an outfit utilizing it.  It involves the Nettie bodysuit as a base, this Chanel illusion dress, and this neckline.  In my mind it works.  I need to find some thicker knit, and possibly cotton sateen or duponi/raw silk in the right colors.  I smell a trip to Bras fabric district soon. 

Back to playing with a baby, and hopefully putting the bodice together.  Until we meet again.

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