Saturday, April 25, 2015

Wardrobe Challenge- Capital Chic Bellini in Plaid

I started writing this post last night, but words would not flow.  Every sentence I wrote made no sense.  It is evaluation season at work, and I am at a loss there as well.  I will get this post done and then I will write my evaluation.  (It's not a normal evaluation, as I write the first third of it, my direct supervisor writes the second third and then my boss's boss writes the last third and each part is about a page long....... Blah!)  Anyway, for my third top for the wardrobe challenge, I made another version of Capital Chic's Bellini.  This time I added a bias yoke in front and back and left off the collar. I've already extensively reviewed this pattern, I love it, so we'll keep this post short and sweet.
I used a plaid silk that I got at Sarah's Fabrics in Lawrence, Kansas last time I was there (over Christmas).  It wasn't labeled to the type of silk, but it's very smooth and densely woven.  It is very light and slightly sheer, so I underlined it with a blue cotton/silk batiste.  This worked really well and it's quite a luscious top to wear.

The main portion of the shirt is cut on the straight grain and then the yokes are on the bias.  I cut the underling on the bias, but next time, I'll cut them on the straight grain.
Let's talk a little bit about the underling.  I used the same method that I used in my hot air balloon dress. I sewed right sides together with a quarter inch seam leaving for the yoke the neckline unsewn and for the main portion the hem unsewn.  I then flipped it right side out and sewed the shirt with 3/8th inch seams.  Which mistake!  They needed to be quarter inch seams.  I didn't realize this until I everything was done and I put it on and it pulls ever so slightly at the bust.  That half of inch was totally needed!
See!  Ugh!  Other than that it is absolutely perfect and exactly what I imagined in my mind when I drew the sketch. 

Well, I changed the position of the bias versus the straight plaid, but other than that, exact!  And speaking of exact, check out that pattern matching!
Unfortunately not as perfect on the other side.
What else to say, I finished both the neckline and the hem with satin bias binding which was then folded over and stitched down.  The sleeves were just folded over.  The placket was folded over twice. 
Buttons are from Yekaterinburg, Russia from my favorite button store of all time.  I love these buttons!  And they were something like 10 cents each.  I am sure you are wondering how this will wear with the quilted skirt.  Not too poorly, I think, I've worn crazier ensembles.

 Here it is with my jacket:
And finally, back with the jeans with the jacket.

Over all, I love my new top.  Next up is the button down with the one large black flower.  Meaning I have to make the fabric!  I have some interesting photo screening printing ink for fabric, so we'll see how it works!  I'll try and take lots of pictures.  Until next time, happy sewing!

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